Truffle
Truffle
A
truffle is the fruiting body of a subterranean ascomycete fungus, predominantly
one of the many species of the genus Tuber.
To cultivate truffles, inoculated
truffle trees are planted in orchards much like those for fruits and nuts,
except that the crop appears below ground and is usually harvested with the
help of trained dogs or pigs that can smell the truffles. Orchards should be
organic and free of fertilizers, so the best truffle can be produced.
Truffles begin to appear several
years (4-5 years) after the inoculated seedlings are planted and production can
continue for decades. The onset and duration of production depends to some
extent on the species of host tree. Yields vary dramatically: some farms
produce as much as 150 pounds per acre each year while others produce little.
Because it is not possible to
weed-out competing fungus species, the strategy behind truffle cultivation is
to provide the truffle fungus with the conditions it needs to prevail in the
competition against other fungi. This competitive advantage is given to the
truffles in several ways:
1.
through careful site selection
2.
planting inoculated seedlings
3.
creating soil conditions better
suited to truffles than other fungi.
Seedlings inoculated while they are
still in the nursery give the truffles the advantage of being there first. It
is more difficult for other fungi to become established on roots that are
already colonized. Sometimes, it is necessary to add lime to raise the soil pH.
Cultivated
varieties include:
·
Black or Perigord truffle (Tuber melanosporum)
·
Winter truffle (Tuber brumale)
·
Summer truffle (Tuber aestivum var. aestivum)
·
Burgundy truffle (Tuber aestivum var. uncinatum)
·
Oregon Black Truffle (Leucangium carthusianum)
·
Oregon White Truffle (Tuber oregonense)
SOURCES
Since the times of the Greeks and Romans these fungi have been
used in Europe as delicacies, as aphrodisiacs, and as medicines. They are among
the most expensive of the world's natural foods, often commanding as much as
$250 to $450 per pound.
Truffles are harvested in Europe with the aid of female pigs or
truffle dogs, which are able to detect the strong smell of mature truffles
underneath the surface of the ground. The female pig becomes excited when she
sniffs a chemical that is similar to the male swine sex attractant. The use of
pigs is risky, though, because of their natural tendency to eat any remotely
edible thing. For this reason, dogs have been trained to dig into the ground
wherever they find these odors, and they willingly exchange their truffle for a
piece of bread and a pat on the head. Not a bad trade for the truffle hunter!
Some truffle merchants dig for their prizes themselves when they see truffle
flies hovering around the base of a tree. Once discovered, truffles can be
collected in subsequent years at the same site.
The flavor of the truffle is directly related to its aroma. The
chemicals necessary for the odor to develop are created only after the spores
are mature enough for release, so they must be collected at the proper time or
they will have little taste. This is the only sure indication that the
mushrooms are ready to be harvested. That is why animals have proven to be the
best means of assuring that the fungi collected will be flavorful.
Although commercial truffles are more plentiful in Europe than in
America, fewer are found there now than in the past. A harvest of 2,200 tons
was reported in l890. Three hundred tons were harvested in l914, but lately
only 25 to 150 tons per year have been found. Truffles appear to have
predictable life cycles. To ensure future production, appropriate tree
seedlings are inoculated with truffle spores, and when the sapling tree is
established, it is transplanted to the proper environment, usually a barren,
rock-strewn calcific soil. It takes about seven years before the first truffle
begins to grow. A bearing tree will produce for about fifteen to thirty years.
For the European market to survive it is necessary to regularly replenish the
population of truffle-bearing trees. Inoculated trees have been brought to
North America, but it is too early to predict how successful these experiments
will be.
Truffles are also found in North Africa, in the Middle East, and
in North America. On the desert after rainfall, knowledgeable Middle Eastern
people collect the "black kame," Terfezia bouderi, and
the "brown kame," Terfezia claveryi. They prefer the
darker ones. In Texas, Tuber texensis is collected, and in
Oregon, the white Tuber gibbosum.
Gaining in popularity and comparing favorably with the Italian
truffle, the Oregon truffle is harvested in sufficient quantity to support
commercial sales. Although the Oregon truffle industry is in its infancy, it
commands as much as $150 per pound for its truffles. James Beard claimed that
the mature Oregon white truffle could be substituted for European varieties.
Originally found in California, the Oregon truffle grows in
association with Douglas fir trees and is a major food source for many small
rodents and other mammals. These underground fungi depend on animals to remove
them from below the surface of the earth and to disperse the spores that result
in the continuation of their species. Here is an example of complex ecology in
which the tree, the fungus, and the animal depend on each other.
Collecting truffles requires training and experience. A small hand
rake or cultivator is used to gently uncover the soil near the base of
suspected host plants. As a rule, in the Northwest, these hosts are various
kinds of conifer trees. Small freshly made holes at the bases of trees, which
are not part of animal tunnels, are excellent indicators that animals have been
digging for fungi.
To enjoy the wonderfulness of the variously described pleasure of
dining on truffles, you must eat fresh, uncooked specimens shortly after they
have been harvested. The strength of the truffle flavor decreases rapidly with
time, and much of it is lost before some truffles reach the market. However,
lovers of these earthly gems advise us that freshly harvested truffles can be
purchased in advance from some local specialty stores. Wholesalers cover them
with rice on restaurant serving trays in a refrigerated room as soon as they
arrive via overnight air freight. The next day they are delivered to the store
where your order was placed. When you spend as much money as will be needed for
such culinary experiments, try to assure that you get truly fresh truffles.
The Italian white truffle is considered to be superior in smell
and taste to the French black truffle. A black summer truffle found in Germany,
smelled to one observer like "a freshly opened can of creamed corn."
This black variety is not considered as choice as the other two European
truffles.
Truffles use in Culinary
Because of their high price and
their pungent aroma, truffles are used sparingly. Supplies can be found
commercially as unadulterated fresh produce or preserved, typically in a
light brine.
As the volatile aromas dissipate
quicker when heated, truffles are generally served raw and shaved over warm,
simple foods where their flavor will be highlighted, such as buttered pasta
or eggs. Thin truffle slices may be inserted into meats,
under the skins of roasted fowl, in foiegras preparations,
in pâtés, or in stuffings . Some
specialty cheeses contain truffles, as
well. Truffles are also used for producing truffle salt and truffle honey.
Truffle oil
Truffle oil is
used as a lower-cost and convenient substitute for truffles, to provide
flavouring, or to enhance the flavour and aroma of truffles in cooking. Many
"truffle oils", however, do not contain any truffles, while others
include pieces of one of the many inexpensive, unprized truffle
varietals, which have no culinary value simply for show.
Truffle vodka
Because more aromatic molecules in
truffles are soluble in alcohol, it can be used to carry a more complex and
accurate truffle flavour than oil without the need for synthetic flavourings.
However, many commercial producers of "truffled" alcohol use
2,4-dithiapentane regardless, as it has become the dominant flavor most
consumers, who have never been exposed to fresh truffles, but only truffle oils,
associate with them. Because most Western nations do not have ingredient
labeling requirements for spirits, consumers often have no way to know if
additional flavorings have been used. Although used as a spirit in its own
right and mixed in a range of cocktails, truffle-flavored
alcohol is also used by chefs to flavour dishes.
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